Tuesday 26 May 2009

The Island of Gorée


The island of Gorée is a fantastic getaway from the chaos and noise of Dakar. When I think of Gorée, I think of paradise, or even a Caribbean island where the doors and windows are vibrantly painted, and are always open; the bouganvillea hanging off the sides of the multicolored houses. The darker side of Gorée is that it was a major station point in the Atlantic Slave Trade, and thousands of slaves stolen from West Africa passed through here on their brutal voyage to America in inhuman conditions. Gorée is teh keyhole to the African continent following the insatiable thirst for slaves during the 18th and 19th century following the European discoveries. When we checked out the slave house, El Hadj showed me tiny rooms where hundreds of slaves were stored, cramped and chained to the floor. I cant even begin to imagine how terrible the conditions were between the journey from the Congo, Nigeria, Guinée, to the storage house and the months spent at sea, only to arrive in America or the Caribbean to work your ass off as a slave hauling cane sugar. Built in 1786 by the Dutch, they say that out of the 20 million Africans stolen and sent as slaves, only 300 per year went through Gorée. El Hadj got so upset being in there, and for good reason. Except then he tells me that it's thanks to Cheikh Amadou Bamba that Africans arent slaves anymore, and its him who put an end to the slave trade...right. Can't argue with someone who is deeply religious though.
The door that opens from the storeroom to the sea represents the "voyage with no return" for African slaves that would never see their homeland again. The whole thing breaks my heart.
As for the rest of Gorée, it might be my idea of heaven on earth. It has a bit of Caribbean island feel to it, but when you think about the Caribbean's cultural origins- IT's AFRICAN!
The houses are red, yellow, with the bouganvillea overflowing over the sides in brilliant violet colors. Gorean artists post up their paintings, necklaces and African masks for all to see. We meander through the quiet streets where there are no roads, no cars, just serenity and harmony. The beach and port has a big jetti where Rasta and Baye Falls fish for carps rouges. Children play soccer while listening to MBALAX music played by a local DJ. Four guys sit on the rocks out by the beach and bang on djembes while singing chants about Islam . Dreadlocked (and hot) Senegalese guys chill out on the beach and play music.
We meander through the streets and up the hilll to see the statue of the two pirogues; symbolizing peace. AKSILEM ak JAMM - please feel welcome and come in peace .
I meet a local artist who shows me his work and how he paints the abstract canvas of African scenes. He has a funny little cap and quirky glasses, and is covered head to toe in PAINT ! He casually mentions that he'll give me a good price, but is not aggressive like those in Dakar . Ive noticed that everyone here is chill and relaxed. Im invited to several little boutiques to look at beautiful necklaces and fabrics. Good thing I left all my money at home or I would probably buy EVERYTHING
The island is not big, but there are a lot of tourists. Everywhere you ho, you hear the ocean waves. Its an island paradise. I love the image of the colorful laundry hanging out to dry; with the waves crashing up on the rocks . CEST TROP BEAU!
El Hadji and I eat lunch at a friendly restaurant where the owners are friendly as can be - the cook has the biggest smile I have ever seen; and his white crisp shirt sets off the beauty of his dark skin. Later on, we cross someone who is eating the local fruit here 'madd' and she doesnt hesitate in offering it to us strangers. Some kid later on asks us for some of our water, and El Hadji doesnt hesitate either in giving him half . I have a LOT to learn from the Senegalese about generosity and sharing what you've got. Mikala jokes that its funny I work in a savings bank because the Senegalase (or maybe West Africans) are the worst at saving money - cuz anything We chill out on the rocks by the sea for hours, watching the sun set and seeing the locals fish for their dinner. El Hadji goes swimming but Im not up for it this night. We share a lot of laughs throughout the day. AURA AND ANDREA - this one is for you girls: Ive started introducing myself as LULU because when I say 'Julia', they respond 'Chulian' . But they nail it when I say Lulu. So now El Hadj has nicknamed me 'LOLO" which, ironically, means big boobs in Wolof. Nice.

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