Monday 29 September 2008

La Grande Chartreuse

Ah, at last, the Alps. My most préférée journée last Sunday, when we drove into the heart of the Rhone-Alps to the Chartreuse Region. Our coach bus chugged its way up the windy, hairpin turns, past the empty ski huts preparing for winter, the alpine log cabins and the endless pastures of caramel-colored cows. Just when I thought we couldn't go any higher (or that our bus wouldn't make it another inch) we just kept climbing and climbing. I knew we had arrived when the road literally ended- on top of a mountain. There was a little log hut serving hot beverages and the most incredible blueberry tart you've ever seen. We started en route up a cow pasture to reach the very tippity-top of the mountain (had to watch where we were going so we didn't step in big piles of cow dung!). Up and up and up along a windy path that weaved back and forth among rocks and steep slopes. At the very top of the mountain was a giant cross- no, not where someone died (that would be tragic, not to mention scary as seeing there were cliffs all around us) but to symbolize the heavily religious area. Why? In the distance was the famous La Grande Chartreuse Monastère, founded in 1084 by Saint Bruno. The monks wanted to build a monastery in a most isolated region, hidden and protected under the jagged mountains above.
At the top, the view was absolutely breathtaking. We're talking 360 degree view here- all around were just endless mountains. It seemed as if they never stopped. Each mountain was blanketed in velvery pastures, dotted with cows, with a rocky ridge on top. Far down below you could make out the road snaking its way through the valley and see all the clusters of villages.
Our group found a spot back down the path in a grassy field for our picnic. And for entertainment? Why, les parapentistes! Paragliders, if you will- over fifteen of them! A bunch of guys lay out their parachutes, strapped themselves to the harness, made a run for it- and literally jumped off a cliff. Made me think of: "Just because someone else jumped off a cliff, would you?"- hell freakin yeah!
It looked like SO much fun - you just float in the air on a giant parachutes, gliding on the air currents, swooping in and out over the massive valley. Sign me up for the next trip! A bunch of kids from our program are going October 8th- get back to you on that one :)
After lunch, Stephanie and I frolicked through a field a grass- on top of an Alp. It was amazing and felt quite appropriate. On our way down, there were these two little boys with their parents, walking down the treacherous path (and doing great! Little French babies!). One had curly blonde hair and they both were no older than five years old and ADORABLE. The little brunette finally stood in my way, and in his little voice goes: "Non! Tu peut pas passer!" while holding his arms up. Merdeux!
On the way down, Stephanie and I gently sang Sound of Music songs, like "The Hills Are Alive," "My Favorite Things," and that one that the puppets sing (we just liked the yodeling part.)
So on our way down this green pasture, spotted with dairy cows (wearing big cowbells and makin' a racket! Thought of Grandma's cowbell...I kept thinking someone was calling me for lunchtime), we were yodeling and skipping and just having a great time. As one point, I realized how much fun the hills looked like for rolling- so I just rolled the rest of the way down! It's fun to be a kid...
A cup of hot chocolate at the little lodge warmed us right up, bought some fromage, the freshest, with Geoffrey. Also immediately thought of Claire when I saw this beautiful St. Bernard running along on one of the hillsides. I thought, "A St. Bernard! On an Alp! Where's Claire?!"
Back on the bus, back down the hairpin turns, and right back up another Alp in search of the monastery. First, we visited a church in a nearby village completed decorated by an artist's contemporary religous artwork of the Bible. Extremely interesting. Who knew you could find such a treasure in a tiny Alpine village outside Grenoble. I'll say that the church was extremely bright and colorful, and each painting (there were at least 50!) had abstract drawings of biblical figures and angels (and a very abstract depiction of Christ above, like none other). There was a lot of red in the paintains and he used a lot of gold flecks in his work. Fascinating!
The road to the monastery wound right along a clear stream, and if you looked up, you saw only great rocks above from the tops of the hills. Nestled in the mountains is the monastery Chartreuse.
D'abord, we checked out the museum to get a sense of what life what like in the monastery for the forty or so monks who live there. They live in solitude in one modest room with a bed, desk, stove and pulpit. The only day they are allowed to talk are Sundays, when the monks have déjeuner together and discuss philosophy, God, gossip? Doubt it. At one point, we all self-reflected about living in that kind of solitude and speaking so rarely. Not for me, but I have immense respect for it.
To see the monastery (you aren't actually allowed to enter it but just view), we walked about a mile down a long road lined with big trees and cow pastures. Climbed up yet another hillside that overlooked the entire monastery nestled in a small valley hidden between two mountains. It was breathtaking- the sun was just setting over a hillside and the light shone through the trees to show a cascade of light down the mountain. Incroyable.
For me, the biggest highlight was after walking all the way back, un frère passed us on a bicycle and said "Bonsoir!" - a monk! On a bicycle! Wearing a beret! And talking, because it was Sunday. You don't see that everyday!

Wednesday 24 September 2008

Antsy in Annecy

So yesterday we had a day trip to Annecy, right near the Italian/Swiss border- not too far from Mont Blanc! Its a beauutiful Alp village called the "Venice of France" bc it has canals running through it (buttttt in reality not nearly as cool as Venice!). It's famous for a lot of things including where Jean-Jacques Rousseau lived for a while (and met his mentor Madame de Warens) and its Sunday market, where all the little cobblestone streets are filled with farmers selliing fruits/veg, salamis, sausage and FROMAGE! ( The farmers are such alpine mountain-men with big bushy beards hehe!). I picked up a lot of Italian walking through the streets because we were so close to the border. Annecy is right on Lake Annecy, which is 14 km in length and the most gorgeous color blue! It lies at the base of all these mountains and is absolutely pristine. In the summer, Solomon himself (as in Solomon ski gear) has a house there as well as the most populated five-star hotels/restaurants in France! Wow! I can picture it well during the summertime, with the big park going right up to the bord du lac and families walking around, swimming, wind-surfing, sailing, paddle-boating.
For lunch, we had a famous Savoie meal called raclette : it's similar to fondue (also originated in Savoie region) but wayyy cooler- you take a wheel big of cheese (best cheese I honestly will EVER have), slice it in half and stick it a heat source and let it melttttt right on to a plate of potatoes, salami, prosciutto, cornichons et oignons. Delicieux.

The last picture is with the director of the program, Marie-Eve Scheibling, who is absolutely wonderful. We would be perdue without her!

All for now, all my love!
Bisoux,
Julia