On Est Ensemble

This is my favorite expression that the Senegalese LOVE to say whenever someone does something nice for you - on est ensemble or no farr in wolof, all of which means 'We are together'. I would like to elaborate more on this but the internet café man is kicking me off! My last night in Sénégal; I am going to a sabar tonight, or a drum repetition on the beach, and then play some French Scrabble with the guys. Tomorrow is the baptism of Magueye's newborn son, he-who-has-not-been-named (babies here are named exactly one week after their birth) .

Mustafa! P'tit monstre!

I hate to leave this country where I find myself surrounded by béugué happiness, family and music.

The Gentlemen's Scrabble Club

Malik, my host brother, invites me to his friend's house on Saturday night to chill . I have no idea what to expect, but mostly a bunch of dudes sitting around playing poker and smoking cigars . We walk into the house right around the corner from the beach, and I immediately love it - we're at "The Professor's" house, with a patio that is covered by a grass canopy with pillows and mats spread out . At a little card table, these two old men are playing not poker, but Scrabble. I immediately think of Mom and Aunt Amy battling it out for Champion of Scrabble. Malik introduces me to The General, who is probably fifty plus, with little spectacles, a bald head and a great wheezing laugh. He's playing against Cheikh, also known as Le Colonel. I meet Zappo, Diallo, Lando, DJ, who all live in the neighborhood and are musicians that repeat and play together every night. The atmosphere is chill and cool and "à l'aise" as they say in French. I join The General and Cheikh at the card table, where they sit for hours, smoking one Excellence cigarette after another and battling over French words that most I've never even heard of . As soon as Malik walks in, he sits down and takes score . Between all the guys here, who are all different ages, different backgrounds, different ethnicities and different work, but they all come together at The Professor's house on the weekend to play music, play Scrabble and discuss (and smoke a few joints here and there). Im enraptured the whole time to see this tight knit group, who are so nice and friendly with each other .for example, Zappo does everything to make sure that everyone is comfortable and has what they need, even if we're not at his house.
Later, we all go down to the beach and bring guitars, djembes, tam tams and percussion and play for hours. Once again, I feel like rhythm and music is flowing through me and my foot doesnt stop tapping .
The guys remind me over and over again "On est ensemble" or in Wolof "No farr" which is their way of saying "We're friends and we're in this together." Big Mo and Lando tell me that they are brothers, because there's a certain point in a friendship when you bypass friendship and become brothers. I also meet Laye, a doctor in the Senegalese army - we talk about Socrates philosophy and go on for hours talking about history, colonization and philosophy. I think I've found my new hangout spot.

Le Voyageur

A word about Senegalese nightclubs - what an experience . I went on Friday night with my host brother and sister - Malik and Mamy . First, alcohol is forbidden by the Koran, but at nightclubs you have the odd bunch who drink . But since theyre not at ALL used to alcohol, they're falling all over the place and hit shamelessly on toubabs like me . Things dont get started until at least 2 in the morning - we arrived at the club at 1 and waited around the empty lounge for an hour before things got started. For music, they hit up all the classic American hip hop and rap songs, and I feel cool only because Im american and know all the words . My favorite part though is that there are mirrors on every wall surrounding the dance floor where guys and girls shamelessly dance by themselves in the mirror and see how they look. Dammmmmn apparently self consciousness doesnt exist here. And then, right when a good song comes on and you want to throw your hands up and shake your hips, you feel something behing you and its some creepy guy behind you whispering in your ear that he wants your phone number. I was preyed on nearly the entire night by guys swooping in and trying to dance with me. Thats when your elbow and a nice shove come in handy.